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Shishapangma Southwest Face
Shishapangma North Face
Shishapangma East Face
Shishapangma North Face Closeup
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Last Updated: April 2008
Shishapangma 8012m - 14th Highest in the World
Shishapangma (8012m) is probably the least known of the world's fourteen
8000m peaks and is the only 8000m peak to lie wholly within Tibet.
Name: Peak XXIII of the Indian Survey was for many years known by the Nepali Hindu
name Gosainthan, which translates as Place Of The Saint, the sacred home of the
god Shiva. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Shishapangma, literally
translating to "The mountain overlooking the grassy plains", a very descriptive
name. The Chinese have created their own Sino-Tibetan name, calling it
Xixabangma.
Shishapangma first ascent:
After reconnaissance from the north in 1961 and 1963, the Chinese returned in
1964 with an expedition numbering over 200.
The first ascent was made on May 2, 1964 via the North Face. Ten climbers
made it to the top including leader Hsu Ching, deputy leader Chang
Chun-yen, Wang Fu-chou, Wu Tsung-yueh, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang, and four
Tibetans - Sodnam Doje, Migmar Trashi, Doje, and Yonten.
Many western climbers were doubtful that the Chinese actually did the climb,
with the ascent photo simply being against a blue sky. Other photos were
eventually analyzed and proved that they had in fact made the ascent.
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Shishapangma was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980. Many people have
successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but less than half have
continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a
knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow.
Other notable ascents:
- In 1982 a small British Team successfully climbed the southwest face in
alpine style, with Alex McIntyre, Doug Scott, and Roger Baxter-Jones reaching
the summit.
My Top 5 Memories Of Shishapangma
- South West face from the Kathmandu Mountain Flight
- North Face from North Base Camp
- Partial view of East Face on the road between Nyalam and the Tong La
- North face from the Tong La
- North Face from Peiku Tso
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