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Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8012m, shines in the early morning sun from Kathmandu’s Mountain flight. The steep and treacherous southwest face is in shadow on the left. The north face is just visible in the sun on the right. On the far right the pointy rocky peak is Phola Gangchen (7716m), first climbed in 1981, and to its left is Shishapangma’s East face.

Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8012m, shines in the early morning sun from Kathmandu’s Mountain flight. (click to enlarge)


Shishapangma (8012m) is the star mountain visible from the Tong La (5143m) between Nyalam and Tingri. Pungpa Ri is on the far left and Phola Gangchen is the peak just to left of centre.

Shishapangma (8012m) is the star mountain visible from the Tong La (5143m) between Nyalam and Tingri. Pungpa Ri is on the far left and Phola Gangchen is the peak just to left of centre. (click to enlarge)


Here is my 2010 crew on the Tong La with Shishapangma behind: cook Pemba Rinjii, cook’s helper Pasang, Tibetan guide Ngawang, Jerome Ryan, Tibetan driver Pemba, and Nepalese guide Gyan Tamang.

Here is my 2010 crew on the Tong La with Shishapangma behind: cook Pemba Rinjii, cook’s helper Pasang, Tibetan guide Ngawang, Jerome Ryan, Tibetan driver Pemba, and Nepalese guide Gyan Tamang. (click to enlarge)


Here’s a closer view of the 14th highest mountain in the world, Shishapangma, as it poked briefly out of the monsoon clouds.

Here’s a closer view of the 14th highest mountain in the world, Shishapangma, as it poked briefly out of the monsoon clouds. (click to enlarge)


Phola Gangchen (7661m) and Shishapangma East Face shine at sunrise from Shishapangma North Base Camp (5029m).

Phola Gangchen (7661m) and Shishapangma East Face shine at sunrise from Shishapangma North Base Camp (5029m). (click to enlarge)


Shishapangma North ABC at the lower left near the ice pinnacles of the Shishapangma Glacier, Phola Gangchen on the left and Shishapangma North Face partially in the clouds from the ridge (5790m) above Shishapangma North Advanced Base Camp.

Shishapangma North ABC at the lower left near the ice pinnacles of the Shishapangma Glacier, Phola Gangchen on the left and Shishapangma North Face partially in the clouds from the ridge (5790m) above Shishapangma North Advanced Base Camp. (click to enlarge)


Shishapangma (8012m) Southwest Face close up late afternoon from Shishapangma Southwest Advanced Base Camp (5276m).

Shishapangma (8012m) Southwest Face close up late afternoon from Shishapangma Southwest Advanced Base Camp (5276m). (click to enlarge)


We finally reach Shishapangma Southwest Base Camp (5276m) with the view of Goldum, Risum, Shishapangma, Pungpa Ri and Nyanang Ri. The ABC used by the 1982 British expedition was a “friendly place in a little hollow amongst grass and boulders” a short distance above the top end of the lake.

We finally reach Shishapangma Southwest Base Camp (5276m) with the view of Goldum, Risum, Shishapangma, Pungpa Ri and Nyanang Ri. The ABC used by the 1982 British expedition was a “friendly place in a little hollow amongst grass and boulders” a short distance above the top end of the lake. (click to enlarge)


The Shishapangma Southwest Face burns orange at sunset from Shishapangma Southwest Advanced Base Camp (5276m).

The Shishapangma Southwest Face burns orange at sunset from Shishapangma Southwest Advanced Base Camp (5276m). (click to enlarge)


Nyanang Ri, Pungpa Ri, Shishapangma East Face, and Phola Gangchen from Kong Tso (5175m).

Nyanang Ri, Pungpa Ri, Shishapangma East Face, and Phola Gangchen from Kong Tso (5175m). (click to enlarge)


The first rays of sunrise silhouette the Shishapangma main summit (8012m) and the central summit on the right with the steep east face from Kong Tso camp (5198m).

The first rays of sunrise silhouette the Shishapangma main summit (8012m) and the central summit on the right with the steep east face from Kong Tso camp (5198m). (click to enlarge)


The first rays of sunrise silhouette Pungpa Ri, the Shishapangma East Face and Phola Gangchen from Kong Tso camp (5198m).

The first rays of sunrise silhouette Pungpa Ri, the Shishapangma East Face and Phola Gangchen from Kong Tso camp (5198m). (click to enlarge)

Updated: March 2012. Click on an image to see the FULL size with a caption.


Shishapangma 8012m - 14th Highest in the World

Shishapangma (8012m) is probably the least known of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks and is the only 8000m peak to lie wholly within Tibet.

Name: Peak XXIII of the Indian Survey was for many years known by the Nepali Hindu name Gosainthan, which translates as Place Of The Saint, the sacred home of the god Shiva. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Shishapangma, literally translating to "The mountain overlooking the grassy plains", a very descriptive name. The Chinese have created their own Sino-Tibetan name, calling it Xixabangma.


Shishapangma First Ascent - Chinese Mountaineers On Shishapangma Main Summit May 2 1964

Shishapangma First Ascent

After reconnaissance from the north in 1961 and 1963, the Chinese returned in 1964 with an expedition numbering over 200.

The first ascent of Shishapangma was made on May 2, 1964 via the North Face. Ten climbers made it to the top including leader Hsu Ching, deputy leader Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-chou, Wu Tsung-yueh, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang, and four Tibetans - Sodnam Doje, Migmar Trashi, Doje, and Yonten.

Many western climbers were doubtful that the Chinese actually did the climb, with the ascent photo simply being against a blue sky. Other photos were eventually analyzed and proved that they had in fact made the ascent.

Other Notable Ascents


Shishapangma Southwest Face First Ascent May 28 1982: Alex MacIntyre returns along the Central Summit ridge. Roger Baxter-Jones is seen as a tiny dot on the shoulder below the final humps of the Shishapangma Main Summit. - Shisha Pangma: The Alpine-Style First Ascent Of The South-West Face book

The first ascent of the Shishapangma Southwest Face was completed on May 28, 1982 in alpine style by Alex McIntyre, Doug Scott, and Roger Baxter-Jones.

The first ascent of Shishapangma by a woman was completed on April 30, 1981 by Junko Tabei from Japan with Rinzing Phinzo and Gyalbu Jiabu.

The first ascent of the Shishapangma Central Summit was completed on October 10, 1982 by Makato Hara, Hiro Komamiya, Hirofumi Konishi, Takayoshi Chiba, Motomu Ohmiya, and Masaaki Tomita from Japan. Many people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but less than half have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow.


Simone Moro and Polish climber Piotr Morawski completed the first Winter ascent of Shishapangma via the south face on January 14, 2005. Here is Moro on the Shishapangma summit. - 8000 Metri Di Vita, 8000 Metres To Live For book

The first ascent of Shishapangma in winter was completed on January 14, 2005 by Simone Moro and Polish climber Piotr Morawski via the southwest face.


My Youtube Videos - Kathmandu To Nyalam, Shishapangma From Tong La, Shishapangma North Base Camp To ABC, Nyalam To Shishapangma Southwest Advanced Base Camp, Shishapangma East face via Kong Tso

         

My Top 5 Memories Of Shishapangma

1. Shishapangma Southwest Face glowing at sunset from Advanced Base Camp

2. Shishapangma East Face glowing at sunrise from Kong Tso

3. Shishapangma North Face from North Base Camp

4. Shishapangma North Face from above Advanced Base Camp

5. Shishapangma Southwest Face from the Kathmansu Mountain Flight