Shishapangma 8012m - 14th Highest in the World

Shishapangma (8012m) is probably the least known of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks and is the only 8000m peak to lie wholly within Tibet.

Name: Peak XXIII of the Indian Survey was for many years known by the Nepali Hindu name Gosainthan, which translates as Place Of The Saint, the sacred home of the god Shiva. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Shishapangma, literally translating to "The mountain overlooking the grassy plains", a very descriptive name. The Chinese have created their own Sino-Tibetan name, calling it Xixabangma.

Shishapangma first ascent:

After reconnaissance from the north in 1961 and 1963, the Chinese returned in 1964 with an expedition numbering over 200.

The first ascent was made on May 2, 1964 via the North Face. Ten climbers made it to the top including leader Hsu Ching, deputy leader Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-chou, Wu Tsung-yueh, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang, and four Tibetans - Sodnam Doje, Migmar Trashi, Doje, and Yonten.

Many western climbers were doubtful that the Chinese actually did the climb, with the ascent photo simply being against a blue sky. Other photos were eventually analyzed and proved that they had in fact made the ascent.

Shishapangma was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980. Many people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but less than half have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow.

Other notable ascents:

In 1982 a small British Team successfully climbed the southwest face in alpine style, with Alex McIntyre, Doug Scott, and Roger Baxter-Jones reaching the summit.

My Top 5 Memories Of Shishapangma

South West face from the Kathmandu Mountain Flight
North Face from North Base Camp
Partial view of East Face on the road between Nyalam and the Tong La
North face from the Tong La
North Face from Peiku Tso