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Shishapangma North Base Camp

Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8012m, shines in the early morning sun from Kathmandu’s Mountain flight. The steep and treacherous southwest face is in shadow on the left. The north face is just visible in the sun on the right. On the far right the pointy rocky peak is Phola Gangchen (7716m), first climbed in 1981, and to its left is Shishapangma’s East face.

Shishapangma, the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8012m, shines in the early morning sun from Kathmandu’s Mountain flight. (click to enlarge)

We drove to Shishapangma Base Camp (5000m), known locally as Chinese Base Camp, pleasantly situated on grassy patch alongside the river, raging in the monsoon. We waited a few hours, and finally the monsoon clouds lifted for a few minutes. On the left is Phola Ganchen (7661m) and to the right is Shishapangma (8012m).

We drove to Shishapangma Base Camp (5000m). On the left is Phola Ganchen (7661m) and to the right is Shishapangma (8012m). (click to enlarge)

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Shishapangma Itinerary July 2005

Shishapangma References

After driving about 30km from Nyalam, I looked back and saw a beautiful view of the east face of Shishapangma come partly visible. The summits of both Shishapangma and Phola Gangchen are in the clouds. The ridge visible on the right of the photo is to the right of Phola Gangchen.

The east face of Shishapangma from beyond Nyalam, with its summit in the clouds. (click to enlarge)

Here’s a closer view of the 14th highest mountain in the world, Shishapangma, as it poked briefly out of the monsoon clouds.

Here’s a closer view of the 14th highest mountain in the world, Shishapangma, as it poked briefly out of the monsoon clouds. (click to enlarge)

Updated: May 2009. Click on an image to see the FULL size with a caption.

Shishapangma 8012m - 14th Highest in the World

Shishapangma (8012m) is probably the least known of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks and is the only 8000m peak to lie wholly within Tibet.

Name: Peak XXIII of the Indian Survey was for many years known by the Nepali Hindu name Gosainthan, which translates as Place Of The Saint, the sacred home of the god Shiva. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Shishapangma, literally translating to "The mountain overlooking the grassy plains", a very descriptive name. The Chinese have created their own Sino-Tibetan name, calling it Xixabangma.

Shishapangma First Ascent - Chinese Mountaineers On Shishapangma Main Summit May 2 1964

Shishapangma First Ascent

After reconnaissance from the north in 1961 and 1963, the Chinese returned in 1964 with an expedition numbering over 200.

The first ascent of Shishapangma was made on May 2, 1964 via the North Face. Ten climbers made it to the top including leader Hsu Ching, deputy leader Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-chou, Wu Tsung-yueh, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang, and four Tibetans - Sodnam Doje, Migmar Trashi, Doje, and Yonten.

Many western climbers were doubtful that the Chinese actually did the climb, with the ascent photo simply being against a blue sky. Other photos were eventually analyzed and proved that they had in fact made the ascent.

Other Notable Ascents

The first ascent of the Shishapangma Southwest Face was completed on May 28, 1982 in alpine style by Alex McIntyre, Doug Scott, and Roger Baxter-Jones.

The first ascent of Shishapangma by a woman was completed on April 30, 1981 by Junko Tabei from Japan.

The first ascent of the Shishapangma Central Summit was completed on October 10, 1982 by Makato Hara, Hiro Komamiya, Hirofumi Konishi, Takayoshi Chiba, Motomu Ohmiya, and Masaaki Tomita from Japan. Many people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but less than half have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow.

The first ascent of Shishapangma in winter was completed on January 14, 2005 by Simone Moro and Polish climber Piotr Morawski via the southwest face.

My Top 5 Memories Of Shishapangma

1. Shishapangma South West face from the Kathmandu Mountain Flight

2. Shishapangma North Face from North Base Camp

3. Partial view of Shishapangma East Face on the road between Nyalam and the Tong La

4. Shishapangma North face from the Tong La

5. Shishapangma North Face from Peiku Tso