As I looked towards the west, I could see the massive 20km-wide crescent edge of Skeidarárjökull (the wandering river glacier) as it drops 1000m from the top of Vatnajökull. It is Europe’s largest valley glacier, and is responsible for Iceland’s largest sandur, the Skeidarársandur. Here you’ll encounter a flat expanse of grey-black sands, some fierce winds and fast-flowing glacial rivers the colour of used dishwater.