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Everest From Kala Pattar
Everest From Beyond Kala Pattar
EverestFrom Beyond Gokyo
Everest North Face and Rongbuk
Lhotse and Everest Kangshung East Face
Everest From Mountain Flight
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Last Updated: July 2008
Mount Everest / Chomolungma - 8850m
Mount Everest (8850m, 29035ft) is the highest mountain in the world. The
summit ridge of the mountain marks the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Height: The official height of Mount Everest was calculated to be 8848m (29,028
ft) in 1954. In 1999 the American Everest Expedition used GPS to recalculate
the height to be 8850m. In 2005 the Chinese Everest Expedition Team used
complicated measurement and calculation to measure the height of Everest to be
8844.43 m (29,017.07 ft). This new height is based on the actual highest point
of rock and not on the snow and ice that sits on top of that rock on the summit.
Mount Everest is still growing in height by a few centimetres each year as the
India plate slides under the Asian plate.
Name: Peak XV of the Indian Survey was named Mount Everest by Sir Andrew
Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India, who named it after his
predecessor, Sir George Everest. In Nepal, the mountain is called
Sagarmatha (Forehead of the Sky) and in Tibetan Chomolungma or Qomolangma
(Mother of the Universe),
Mallory and Irvine
On June 8, 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine
made an attempt on the summit from which they never returned.
Noel Odell, the expedition's geologist, saw the pair climbing up "with great
alacrity... near the base of the final pyramide" [sic] at 12:50pm that day.
In 1999 the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition found Mallory's body, fueling lots of discussion and theories
about whether they may have died after reaching the summit.
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Everest First ascent:
In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned
to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The
first pair turned back after becoming exhausted high on the mountain. The next
day, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with its
fittest and most determined climbing pair. The summit was eventually reached at
11:30 am local time on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and
Sherpa Tenzing Norgay climbing the South Col Route.
Hillary: “I had carried my camera, loaded with colour film, inside my shirt to keep it warm,
so I now produced it and got Tenzing to pose for me on the top, waving his ice-axe on which was a string
of flags—British, Nepalese, United Nations, and Indian. Then I turned my attention to the great stretch of
country lying below us.”
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Other notable ascents:
- The first successful ascent of the North Face was made on May 25 1960 by
a Chinese team consisting of Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and a Tibetan, Gingbu (Konbu)
using the North Ridge.
- The first successful ascent of the Kangshung East Face was made in 1983
by an American expedition led by James D. Morrissay,
with Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler summiting.
- In 1963 Thomas Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld successfully climbed
to the summit via the extremely difficult West Ridge.
They then traversed the mountain and descended via the South Col route, having to
bivouac near the summit without any food, supplemental oxygen, or shelter.
- In 1975 Doug Scott and Dougal Haston climbed the south west face on a
large British expedition led by Chris Bonington.
- On May 8, 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler completed the first ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen, via the normal Nepalese southeast route.
- On August 20, 1980 Reinhold Messner completed the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen via Tibet's North Face.
- In 1988 an expedition climbed a new route on Kangshung Face, up the South Buttress on the face to reach the South Col,
with Stephen Venables reaching the summit.
- In 1996 12 people died trying to reach the summit, including guides Rob Hall and Scott Fisher, sparking
wide publicity and raising questions about the commercialization of Everest.
Journalist Jon Krakauer, on assignment from Outside magazine, was in one of the affected parties,
and afterwards published the bestseller Into Thin Air which related his experience.
Anatoli Boukreev, a guide who felt impugned by Krakauer's book, co-authored a rebuttal book called The Climb.
My Top 5 Memories Of Everest
- Everest South West Face - the view from Kala Pattar in Nepal is at the end of a spectacular trek
- Everest North Face - you can drive to this spectacular view
- Everest Kangshung East Face - what a different mountain from the east. You can see the full east face,
unobstructed and full of snow.
- Everest South Base Camp - trek in April/May to see the Base Camp City and trek to the edge of the infamous icefall
- Everest From The Air - take the mountain flight from Kathmandu for a close-up view of the south west face
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