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July 2005 Everest North
Everest North Itinerary in July 2005
1. Everest North Face in Monsoon Photos
Next Stop: Shishapangma
Everest From Kala Pattar

Everest From Kala Pattar

Everest From Beyond Kala Pattar

Everest From Beyond Kala Pattar

Everest From Beyond Gokyo

EverestFrom Beyond Gokyo

Everest North Face and Rongbuk

Everest North Face and Rongbuk

Lhotse and Everest East Kangshung East Face

Lhotse and Everest Kangshung East Face

Everest From Mountain Flight

Everest From Mountain Flight

Last Updated: July 2008

Mount Everest / Chomolungma - 8850m

Mount Everest (8850m, 29035ft) is the highest mountain in the world. The summit ridge of the mountain marks the border between Nepal and Tibet.

Height: The official height of Mount Everest was calculated  to be 8848m (29,028 ft) in 1954. In 1999 the American Everest Expedition used GPS to recalculate the height to be 8850m. In 2005 the Chinese Everest Expedition Team used complicated measurement and calculation to measure the height of Everest to be 8844.43 m (29,017.07 ft). This new height is based on the actual highest point of rock and not on the snow and ice that sits on top of that rock on the summit. Mount Everest is still growing in height by a few centimetres each year as the India plate slides under the Asian plate.

Name: Peak XV of the Indian Survey was named Mount Everest by Sir Andrew Waugh, the British surveyor-general of India, who named it after his predecessor, Sir George Everest.  In Nepal, the mountain is called Sagarmatha (Forehead of the Sky) and in Tibetan Chomolungma or Qomolangma (Mother of the Universe),

Everest Mallory and Irvine Last Photo

Mallory and Irvine

On June 8, 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine made an attempt on the summit from which they never returned. Noel Odell, the expedition's geologist, saw the pair climbing up "with great alacrity... near the base of the final pyramide" [sic] at 12:50pm that day.

In 1999 the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition found Mallory's body, fueling lots of discussion and theories about whether they may have died after reaching the summit.

Everest First Ascent - Tenzing Norgay On Everest Summit

Everest First ascent:

In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The first pair turned back after becoming exhausted high on the mountain. The next day, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with its fittest and most determined climbing pair. The summit was eventually reached at 11:30 am local time on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay climbing the South Col Route.

Hillary: “I had carried my camera, loaded with colour film, inside my shirt to keep it warm, so I now produced it and got Tenzing to pose for me on the top, waving his ice-axe on which was a string of flags—British, Nepalese, United Nations, and Indian. Then I turned my attention to the great stretch of country lying below us.”

Other notable ascents:

  • The first successful ascent of the North Face was made on May 25 1960 by a Chinese team consisting of Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and a Tibetan, Gingbu (Konbu) using the North Ridge.
  • The first successful ascent of the Kangshung East Face was made in 1983 by an American expedition led by James D. Morrissay, with Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler summiting.
  • In 1963 Thomas Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld successfully climbed to the summit via the extremely difficult West Ridge. They then traversed the mountain and descended via the South Col route, having to bivouac near the summit without any food, supplemental oxygen, or shelter.
  • In 1975 Doug Scott and Dougal Haston climbed the south west face on a large British expedition led by Chris Bonington.
  • On May 8, 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler completed the first ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen, via the normal Nepalese southeast route.
  • On August 20, 1980 Reinhold Messner completed the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen via Tibet's North Face.
  • In 1988 an expedition climbed a new route on Kangshung Face, up the South Buttress on the face to reach the South Col, with Stephen Venables reaching the summit.
  • In 1996 12 people died trying to reach the summit, including guides Rob Hall and Scott Fisher, sparking wide publicity and raising questions about the commercialization of Everest. Journalist Jon Krakauer, on assignment from Outside magazine, was in one of the affected parties, and afterwards published the bestseller Into Thin Air which related his experience. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide who felt impugned by Krakauer's book, co-authored a rebuttal book called The Climb.

My Top 5 Memories Of Everest

  1. Everest South West Face - the view from Kala Pattar in Nepal is at the end of a spectacular trek
  2. Everest North Face - you can drive to this spectacular view
  3. Everest Kangshung East Face - what a different mountain from the east. You can see the full east face, unobstructed and full of snow.
  4. Everest South Base Camp - trek in April/May to see the Base Camp City and trek to the edge of the infamous icefall
  5. Everest From The Air - take the mountain flight from Kathmandu for a close-up view of the south west face