Parque Cespedes is the new town’s main square, south of the Trinidad old town. On the left is the 5-star Iberostar hotel. To the right is the air-conditioned Etecsa office, where we checked our emails. And in the centre is a dome-shaped leafy canopy that provides plenty of shade. Set back from the southwestern edge of the Parque Cespedes is a modest tiled-roof San Francisco de Paula church, built in the early 19th century.